Friday, 29 April 2016

Starlet Suit Jacket - Craftsy Class

I had loved this jacket since the class was first released, but didn't buy it then because I was pretty new to sewing.  I did manage to get it during a Craftsy sale, which is just as well as it doesn't seem to be available any more.  The teacher is Gretchen from Gertie's Blog For better Sewing, and if you like the look of the jacket, there is a similar pattern in her book, Gertie's Book For Better Sewing.


I finally decided to have a go at making it after buying this lovely lilac herringbone fabric on ebay for £33 for 5 metres.  It's 65% polyester and 35% wool and was a lucky find, and I knew I'd have enough fabric to re-cut if I needed to.  In the end, I didn't need to re-cut, and the jacket only took 2 metres of fabric.  I made a toile before Christmas, and then spent some time gathering together all the other bits and pieces that I needed.  I had planned to start it over Easter , which I did by cutting it out on Easter Sunday.


I'm delighted with how it turned out, and have a lot to say about it, so I'll break it down.

Hand Tailoring

I did all the hand tailoring when I was off work on Easter Monday and Tuesday.  It was enjoyable, although it did get a bit tedious towards the end.


This is both fronts with the pad stitching done on the lapels, and the roll line and edges taped.  I think the bit that turned out best was the under collar.  I didn't take a photo of it by itself, but it stood up beautifully after it had been shaped!


I think I will investigate some different hair canvases for my next coat.  I got this canvas on ebay, but if anybody has any recommendations, please let me know. 


The lining is some lilac peachskin.  This is what I had planned to use, but I couldn't find any on the interwebs.  I know!!  So I got some white instead.  Then I considered using some cream silk that I have, but it turned out that the hair canvas showed through, and there was a minor panic.  The good old Spinning Wheel in Belfast came to the rescue with two different shades of lilac peachskin.

Welt Pockets

I have come to the conclusion that I do not like sewing welt pockets.  They are fiddly and time consuming.  Also, my tablet computer threw a wobbly when I was at the crucial stage of sewing down the little triangles at each end of the cut into the jacket front.  It just refused to play my Craftsy class, and I ended up having to watch the rest of it on the tiny screen on my phone.

The right pocket turned out well, but I'm not so happy with the left one, and I'm fairly certain that I couldn't be bothered to sew welt pockets again.


Bound Buttonholes

These are made using the patch method.  I think next time I will use the welt method as I think it would give more even horizonal edges.


Shortened sleeves by 1/2" above the elbow dart to raise the dart a bit - and that was it!!  It turns out coats are more forgiving in fit that dresses and blouses!  That said, if I made this again, I think I would go down a size at the shoulders and underarms.


The way the collar is attached is different to a dress or blouse, and unfortunately this bit of the class wasn't very clear.  It did reference an artical from Threads Magazine, which I found here, but predictably I didn't bother looking at it at the time, and just winged it!  It turned out ok though, and then I found some more references to this method in a couple of my books.  I'll know again though.

The under collar is cut on the bias, and the top collar is cut on the straight grain.
Setting in the sleeves

The class shows a method that I hadn't heard of before, which is to gather the sleeve heads using a strip of bias cut fabric.  It suggests using hair canvas or the coat fabric.  I was a bit sceptical about it, so cut out two sleeves heads and practiced on them.  I tried both hair canvas and the coat fabric, and ended up using the coat fabric.  


The strips are cut 2" wide and 12" long, and then you line the long edge of the strip up with the edge of the sleeve head.  Starting at the top of the sleeve head (the bit that lines up with the shoulder seam), you sew it in within the seam allowance - I think it was 1/2".  You stretch out the bias strip as you push the sleeve head under the foot.  I pushed the sleeve head a bit too much on one and got some puckers, but just unpicked and did it again.

I really wasn't sure how this would fit into the armhole, but it did!  There is a little bit of give if you need to stretch it out a bit, and I was delighted with how the sleeves looked.   

This was taken on my phone, but you can see the strip around the top of the sleeve head after the sleeve has been set in. 

Shoulder Pads

It wouldn't be me if there wasn't some overthinking involved, and with everything that's involved in making a jacket, it was quite a surprise to find out it would be on the shoulder pads.  I had bought some shoulder pads, but when I pinned them in I thought they showed though to the outside.  So I remembered this great post from Manju, and basically copied how she made her shoulder pads.

Then came the sleeve heads which fill out the very top of the sleeve.  I would have sworn there was a bit about sleeve heads in the class, but it turned out there wasn't!  After a lot of doubting my own mind, I realised that they were in another Craftsy class I have.  Then I couldn't decide if it was the right thing to do to add them.  Eventually (and be glad you don't live in the same house as me!) I thought I'd put them in because I could always take them out if I didn't like them.  

I forgot to take photos of all of this until everything was sewn in place, and even then this photo was taken on my phone.


I really enjoyed making this jacket, and it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, but it definately helped to have a class to follow along with.  I'm already planning more coats after finding these vintage patterns on ebay.


The one on the left was £3.99 and is a single size pattern.  I think it is roughly the right size, but will make a toile first.  The pattern company is Le Roy Weldon, which I hadn't heard of before, but my mum said she remembered her mum having some of their patterns.  It's from the 1960s, and the price sticker in the top left corner say 5/9'; my dad said that worked out at about 35p.  The green coat in View B is the green winter coat of my dreams, and also the lady wearing it reminds me of my mum.   

The pattern on the left is from Family Circle which was a magazine that I remember my Granny buying.  This pattern was £2.50, and is a multi sized pattern.  I can see this in a charcoal grey or charcoal purple, although I think I would add buttons and widen the skirt on the back a bit.

Apologies for the slightly wind-swept photos, it's been very breezy today, but yesterday morning we had snow, so I shouldn't complain!  You've got to love the British weather!  And Monday is the May Day bank holiday, so it will be a long weekend of sewing for me.

Enjoy if you're off too!


Wednesday, 20 April 2016

Deer And Doe Melilot Shirt

As mentioned in this post, this is my first version of the Deer and Doe Melilot Shirt I really love the shape of this shirt, it's not fitted, but not too baggy either.  Shirt nirvana!

I made View B with the collar from View A.  I had a bit of trouble with the instructions for the button placket, but then I realised that I had cut it with the extra bit for the concealed placket on View A.  Once I'd trimmed that off, it was plain sailing.  That said, I made a toile, including one long sleeve, and the instructions for the single piece placket on the long sleeves were perfect. 

My fabric is some chiffon from local sewing chum Evelyn (thank you Evelyn!).  She got it on holiday last year, and said when she saw the 70s print, she thought of me.  There was exactly the right width and length for the short sleeves version, so it was clearly meant to be.

I used French Seams throughout, and attached the collar using this method.  I interfaced both sides of the collar and stand as the fabric is thin, and the print was showing through.

My good friend spray starch came to the rescue for stablising the fabric.  It definately helped with cutting out, although I think I would have been better off using my rotary cutter; and the starch also helped with stopping the fabric fraying so much.


There were a few mods - I moved the bust dart up by 1/2", and have shortened the long sleeve pattern piece by 1.5".  I didn't love the long shirt tail, and also it was just too long on me, so I shortened the back by 4" and the front by 3".

Melilot number two is nearly done, I just need to finish the cuffs and do the buttonholesThe fabric is some white peachskin that was going to be another version of my self-drafted shirt.  And I'm also planning to make a Fumeterre Skirt to go with it after finding some medium weight green cotton that I forgot I had!


In other news - I got my hair cut.  It wasn't supposed to be this short, but apparently this is what passes for "cut two inches off please" these days...  I don't hate it, and am getting used to it now, and also it looks much better in these photos that it does in my headAlso, if you follow me on Instagram you will know that my Starlet Suit Jacket is finished.  I need to take some photos of it, and write a post because I've plenty to say about it - all of it's good though!


Saturday, 2 April 2016

Sew Over It Tulip Skirt and Shawl Collar Blouse

This is an updated version of the black blouse from a few weeks' ago.  


I said that I wanted to lower the neckline, which I did, by 1.5 inches.  I also lowered the back and front necklines by 1 cm.  This is something I was shown at my pattern drafting class, which we used on shirt and convertible collars.  Basically, when you trace your sloper, you shave 1 cm off the back and front neckline, and carry on from there.


The collar is then drafted from the lowered neckline measurement, which meant that I had to re-draft this collar.  I don't know what the reasoning is behind lowering by 1 cm (maybe to open up the neckline a bit?), and really wasn't sure if it would work on a lower neckline, but thought "what's the worst that can happen?!"

My fabric is salvaged from this dress.  I was pretty sad about this dress not working out - the collar was a disaster, and I was a bit hacked off as the fabric wasn't exactly cheap.  It's Brussels Washer Linen/Rayon mix from Dragonfly Fabrics. I harvested most of the fabric from the skirt, and found a little bit more in the scraps pile too.


And it goes very well with this skirt that took a while to finish.   This is the Sew Over It Tulip Skirt, which I bought as soon as it was released.  This wool fabric is also from Sew Over It, but I got it when it was sale, and they don't seem to have it anymore.


There's not much to say about the construction of the skirt, as it's really easy and the instructions are great.  I especially like the curved waistband instead of a rectangle waistband, and would like to try adding this shape of skirt to a dress.


If you follow me on Instagram, you will know that I have started to make a hand-tailored jacket.  I got a good bit done over Easter, but stalled in the middle of the week when it turned out that my lining fabric wasn't going to work.  But I was able to get exactly what I wanted in The Spinning Wheel in Belfast this morning, so I might start on the welt pockets tomorrow.



Saturday, 26 March 2016

Convertible collar blouse and some musings on facings

I'm still way down in the collar/blouse drafting rabbit hole,  and this time it's a convertible collar.  I drafted this collar in my pattern drafting class, and I had to do a bit of hunting around the sewing room to find the pattern piece!


My skirt is this old favourite, and this blouse is a variation on the black blouse from a few weeks' ago.  I like the little shoulder yoke and the gathering, so kept them.  I wanted to try cutting the back and yoke in one piece by overlapping the pattern pieces at the shoulder seam, but completely forgot about it until after I'd cut it out!  Maybe next time.



The sleeves are based on the sleeves from the Deer and Doe Airelle blouse, which I  have made here and here.  I always felt the Airelle sleeves were a bit too short; so, using my sleeve block, I lengthed them by 1 inch, and also made them a bit narrower - I can't remember by how much, maybe an inch.  And they turned out exactly how they looked in my head, which is always pleasing.

The fabric is some peachskin fabric that was left over from the lining of my Woodland Stroll Cape.



The only thing I don't like about this blouse is the facing - which is fine, because it's in the inside, and nobody can see it.  But I've been pondering neckline facings lately because the one's that I've drafted never seem to sit flat.

This isn't a problem, because it can't be seen from the outside, but it was getting on my nerves.  Then I had one of those moments when a solution came to me when I wasn't even thinking about it; in fact, I think I was shampooing my hair at the time! 

You can see in this photo how the facing flips up towards the shoulder seams.  The solution was to overlap the shoulder seam a bit in the same way that you would when drafting a Peter Pan collar, because a facing is basically a flat (Peter Pan) collar, but on the inside of the garment.  So that's what I did; and it worked!

I overlapped the shoulder by 2 cm, as in the instructions for a Peter Pan collar in my drafting book "Metric Pattern Cutting For Women's Wear", then traced the facing from the neck edge in.  I made my facings 3 inches wide, which allows for the seam allowance and also finishing the outside edge. 


I also made the facing as two mirror image pieces with a seam at the centre back, instead of a back facing and two front facings joined at the shoulder.  It just made more sense to me to do it this way, and it reduces bulk at the shoulders on a thicker fabric.

I tried it out on another blouse, and was delighted with the results.  This blouse deserves a post of it's own because it also has a skirt that goes with it, but here is how the facings look in comparison to the red blouse's facings.

Much nicer!  I appreciate that I'm getting into Drafting Anorak realms, but I wanted to document it in case it helps someone else.

Anyway, I hope everybody is enjoying your Easter break whatever you are doing.  I intend to spend most of my crafting.  Here in Northern Ireland we get Easter Monday and Tuesday off work (I've no idea why!), so I have four days of sewing and munching easter eggs ahead of me.  Not bad!

Happy Easter,